‘THERE is just no other ship in the world quite like her,” beams proud captain Richard Heaton as we ease out of Oban Bay aboard the Hebridean Princess. “She is a glorious piece of maritime history that celebrates her 60th birthday this year. All of our guests love her. She is the ideal way to cruise the Hebrides and fits in so perfectly with the isles.”
The uniqueness of the Hebridean Princess is evident: Richard stands on a traditional bridge complete with a proper helm. Brilliantly, he still communicates with the engine room via an old Chadburn system. The bridge rings for more power and the Chadburn lodges into position. Seconds later, the engineers react to the ringing and her engines burrow ahead.
Launched in 1964 as the passenger ferry MV Columba to serve the Hebrides – in a certain light you can still see the massive Caledonian MacBrayne lettering beneath today’s elegant Royal Blue paintwork – she also had a secret dual role as a “citadel ship”. This meant in the event of a Third World War, politicians or royals would be ghosted out into the Atlantic on a vessel equipped with the might of reinforced bulkheads, blast screens, decontamination facilities and more cabin space.
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The royal connection is a strong one. Princess Anne was the first royal to cruise aboard. She tipped off her monarch mum that this unique vessel was a more than capable stand-in for their former royal yacht Britannia and so she chartered the ship for her 80th birthday in 2006. Then again in 2010.
The portrait of the late royal couple still hangs above the reception. As does a Royal Warrant.
Over the years, I’ve been lucky to sail aboard the Hebridean Princess more than once and this spring I popped on for her 60th birthday lunch with a fitting special guest – Scottish Rugby Union patron herself, Princess Anne. She was back aboard draped in Harris Tweed. Whatever your view on royalty there was no doubting her passion for the Hebrides and a ship it’s impossible not to be charmed by.
I’ve written before that if the Orient Express is the King of Trains then the Hebridean Princess is the “Ship of Queens”. And I don’t just mean literally. She is easily my favourite cruise ship in the world.
The fact that she somehow sails out of dry dock every winter is a minor miracle. It’s a testament to Greenock’s finest that they make it work.
One of the ship’s engineers explained to me: “They just don’t make spare parts for her anymore, so we have to fashion our own, which then of course have to be made to the same exacting safety standards as other ships.”
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The Hebridean Princess is not like other ships though. There are no locks on the cabin doors. No needless airs and graces with staff either, who are always on hand with cheery smiles and seamless service.
With 38 crew to look after a maximum of 50 guests, there is time and space for that personal touch and attention to detail.
Passengers are people who have usually travelled widely and appreciate the ship’s informality. They don’t crave cheesy platitudes – just that rich vein of hospitality that Scotland on its day does brilliantly. The Hebridean Princess comes with a hefty price tag, but every guest I’ve ever spoken to aboard reckons she is worth the splurge.
Cabins come with a liberal wash of tartan but are still understated, calm and comfortable. Mine peers out over the bow towards an ever-changing panorama. Not that I will spend that much time in my cabin, not with the Tiree Lounge on hand.
This is the ship’s social hub. A huge arch of windows offers epic views on three sides, with sink-in sofas and chairs sprinkled around facing out. The bar staff shimmy around with the ship’s favourite tipple – Taittinger champagne. There are lashings of whiskies; Scottish gins too. And decadent afternoon tea.
The other social hub is the Columba Restaurant, which pays homage to the old CalMac ferry. It’s a delight. Choose whether to sit as a couple, or join a larger table to make new friends and meet the crew. Even the captain pops down for some meals. The food is sublime. We’re talking the likes of a seafood buffet lunch overflowing with oysters, langoustines and a whole salmon, through to top-notch Scottish beef. Every meal has dessert and a cheese course option too. And everything is as local as possible.
A highlight of the week is the gala dinners. There are usually two in a week – the chance to posh it up with kilts and bow ties.
The second will see chief purser Andy Allan’s rousing Address To The Haggis as it is piped in. Watching some first-timers enjoy our national dish on a vessel that Scotland is lucky to have sailing our waters I’ll raise a dram in toast.
And in my next article for you, I will be sharing my experiences exploring the Hebrides for a week aboard this unique maritime steed. As Captain Richard says, “reaching the parts of the Hebrides most other ships cannot reach.”
For more information, visit www.hebridean.co.uk
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