New York City: The city that never disappoints

I’d heard good things about jetBlue (www.jetblue.com) and I wasn’t disappointed, with free fast WiFi for everyone and a decent leg pitch in economy aboard their state-of-the-art Airbus 321 Neo. Their Mint class business flat beds take things to another level – think superb bespoke small-plate dining, snazzy noise-reduction headphones, a well-stocked amenity kit and loads of space.

I was determined to squeeze as much as possible into my four days. The CityPASS proved seriously handy and seriously good value. It cost £119, including access to the spectacular viewing galleries and brilliant exhibition sections at the Empire State Building and the giant American Museum of Natural History included.

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Then I got to choose three further highlights. I went for a ferry trip with Circle Line that eased down the Hudson from Midtown right out to the State of Liberty – many emigrée Scots’ first sight of America – and then under the Brookyln Bridge. A return visit to the Guggenheim then beckoned – the city’s must-see gallery, its swirling Frank Lloyd Wright architecture a work of art in itself – and then another skyscraper adventure to the three viewing gallery levels of the Rockefeller Center.

I never get bored of Manhattan’s skyscrapers, so I headed to the impressive modern Hudson Yards complex. An express lift bulleted me into the heavens to my favourite observation deck in NYC, the Edge. It literally hangs over the city with a glass section you can peer down through if you’re brave enough. The seriously brave can don a harness for the City Climb experience of dangling over Manhattan.

Or just sip a cocktail and admire the epic view.

Independent exploring is a joy in New York, but guided tours really open up the city too, especially if they are with Like a Local Tours. My guide – Justin van Voorhis, on their Nomad & Flatiron Architecture & Food Tour – was brilliant. He swept me around the Flatiron District with swathes of history and architectural heritage, bringing in films and famous people too, connecting dots I’d have been unable to solo.

The food element of the tour was superb. We kicked off with a Reuben bagel, a delicious sweet, salty, seriously satisfying treat. Then it was on to proper Margherita pizza at Eataly and spirit-soaring coffee roasted locally, followed by a delicious sweet treat, a Chocolate Rugelach at Breads Bakery and a bowl of nutritious health food at Honeybrains.

I ate very well across the city. The Union Square Greenmarket’s fresh New York State produce is great for assembling a picnic.

It was Little Italy for proper pizza (rather than the ubiquitous NYC pizza slice) and Chinatown for soup dumplings. The pop-up Italian at Café D’Avignon hit the comfort food bases, while the best meal of the trip was at Mesiba in Brooklyn where lip-smackingly excellent Middle Eastern mezze styles starters set the scene for the best bone-in ribeye I’ve had for years.

Some interesting American wines too and a cracking Basque cheesecake.

Highly recommended.

The exchange rate may currently be a bit more favourable, but I’d never claim New York is a cheap city. There are, though, other ways of keeping costs down. I used the Subway a lot. It’s only $2.90 a ride and that allows a two-hour window, so if you’re canny, you can see two sights in different parts of town on one ticket. Late at night, when you’re looking for an easier way home, Uber can be decent value as the traffic has eased.

Also remember Manhattan (originally known as “Manahatta” by its original Lenape inhabitants) is now pancake flat, so walking is easy. You see and feel so much more of Manhattan’s street life on foot. Make sure to check out the High Line, a brilliantly converted old elevated railway line now open as a lush, green walkway. And remember, NYC has drinkable tap water from the Catskills, so bring a refillable bottle. Most restaurants offer free “iced water” if you ask too.

(Image: EMPICS Sport)

Some things in New York are worth treating yourself for. I usually try to catch a Broadway show, which always feels like a grand event. This time, it was the spellbinding, special-effects laden joy of Harry Potter and the Cursed Child at the Lyric Theatre. I got my ticket through Broadway Collection (www.broadwaycollection.com), which specialises in getting the best prices on the best seats.

All too soon it was time to catch the subway back over the East River and turn my back on the Big Apple. It’s a city that never disappoints, always compels and is easier to get to than ever before with a new flight route and a more favourable exchange rate.

For further tourist info see www.nyctourism.com. I also used Lonely Planet’s excellent guide to New York.