IN kitchens across Scotland, passions are whipped, hopeful creations concocted, traditional recipes and modern mixtures prepared and packaged in the hope they will catch our eye and reach our tables.
Whenever I speak to the people behind food and drink businesses, I always am struck by the tremendous amount of hard work they put into developing their products, and the hope they carry with them.
Whether they are cooking up a storm in their kitchens, setting out their stalls or smoothing down their aprons before unlocking the doors, their days are driven by hope.
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It can be hard to watch that hope falter in the current economic climate. One cafe owner I spoke to recently told me how worrying it is to watch regular customers go from one visit a week, to once a fortnight, to once a month, or how the person who would sit with a cup of tea by the winter fire getting a heat and some company now stops by to say hello but doesn’t come in the door.
However, hope and determination prevail. I enjoy popping into village delicatessens, farm shops and eateries which increasingly stock a wide range of Scottish produce.
I make a point of trying as many of the foods and drinks as my basket, my purse and my husband can bear. There is a scene in the film The Devil Wears Prada where a young fashionista holds up two near-identical belts and says “It’s a tough call, they’re so different …”
My beloved is a man who no longer questions why we have five different salts in our kitchen, or oatcakes of various shapes, sizes and textures.
I am a simple wearer of cerulean sweaters compared to the 500 food critics, chefs, retailers, buyers and more who were called upon to judge the Guild of Fine Food’s Great Taste 2024 awards. They blind-tasted 13,672 products from almost 3500 companies from 115 countries. The winning entries were announced at the end of July. Scottish businesses won a total of 296 awards, including 207 products winning one star, 78 being rated two stars and 11 achieving three stars, the latter being the highest-ranking award.
The best of the three-star category from each country or region go on to be submitted for the prestigious Golden Fork, “an Oscar of the food and drink world”. The Great Taste Golden Fork winners will be announced at a ceremony in September.
The three Scottish products being put forward are Scottish Sea Salt Flakes from Blackthorn Salt, Lussa Gin from Lussa Drinks Company, and The Wee Comrie from Strathearn Cheese Company.
According to the Guild of Fine Food, only 1.9% of all entries (266 in total globally, 131 from the UK) received a three-star award, given to “extraordinarily tasty food and drink”. Some 10.1% – 1386 in total globally – were awarded two stars, “above and beyond delicious”, and 28.8%, 3938 in total globally, were awarded one star, “food and drink that delivers fantastic flavour”.
John Farrand, managing director of the Guild of Fine Food, says: “It’s hugely important to us at the guild to inject some positivity into the speciality food and drink industry.
“We’re doing our bit for cultural relations across the planet when there is so much legislation trying to prevent it. It’s a real privilege to support and underpin independent makers through the process of Great Taste.”
As I scroll through the Scottish winners, many familiar favourites appear, among them two made a few miles from my door. Hemp It Up’s Raspberry, Mint And Balsamic Hemp Drizzle is a handy treat for salads but I’ve also used it to tart up rice and pasta dishes, and Artisana’s Posh Snicker Brownie is pretty close to perfection with a cup of coffee.
Further away, a special mention surely must go to Donald Russell, of Inverurie, a business born out of a collaboration between an Aberdeenshire farmer and a local butcher.
It won a three-star award for its Five Bone Himalayan Salt Aged Heritage Breed Rib Roast, a two-star award for its Crown Selection Scotch Fillet Steak and almost a dozen one-star awards – meaning there is plenty to celebrate as the business marks its 50th anniversary. Customers include Singapore’s Raffles Hotel.
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As I worked my way through the list of Scottish Great Taste winners, I was struck by how many “pockets of excellence” emerged, with some areas featuring several winning businesses. Perhaps it is easier to imagine success when you are surrounded by it? Maybe it is not so daunting to start a venture when you can chat to people who already are making their dreams a reality?
Food businesses, producers, and groups across Scotland can now apply for grants of up to £5000 to promote local produce as the Scotland Food and Drink Partnership’s Regional Food Fund opens for applications, with £100,000 available from the Scottish Government to support regional food activity across Scotland.
Fiona Richmond, head of regional food at Scotland Food and Drink, said: “The Regional Food Fund is now entering its fifth round, a real testament to the importance of this programme.
“In the past, the fund has helped bring to life food and drink festivals, promotional campaigns for Scottish produce, market weekends, cook schools and many more collaborative opportunities showing the quality of produce and the journey from field to fork.
“The fund encourages collaboration within regions and the supply chain, shining a spotlight on unique food and drink stories and experiences for us all to enjoy. The desire for local produce is strong, and Scotland Food and Drink is proud to continue its support to regional food and drink initiatives.”
There is no lack of drive or determination to deliver high-quality, delicious Scottish food and drink. As we continue to move through difficult times, it is good to remember that when local businesses prosper, that success feeds into our communities, giving a boost to jobs and opportunities.
Ruth Watson is the founder of the Keep Scotland the Brand campaign.
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