‘Scotland in Miniature’ may be a cheesy epithet, but we don’t need to be dour about this as for once the tourist hype is more than justified. Arran is the country in microcosm geographically, geologically, historically and – increasingly - gastronomically. There is even a strong case for Arran being Scotland’s unmissable isle.
I’ve been lucky to visit Arran countless times and have sometimes encountered a bewildering snobbishness about Scotland’s seventh largest island when I say I’m returning. Yes Arran is tinged in doon the watter nostalgia and no it doesn’t require an epic adventure through to the Highlands just to get to.
Maybe it is that sheer proximity to the Central Belt and Scotland’s largest city, but it’s hard to see how these are negatives. Unless, of course, you are being snobbish. Arran’s most famous strapline shines strongest geographically. The Highland Boundary Fault surges right through Arran, forging the north into Alpine-esque peaks, sweeping glens and gurgling burns. Goatfell may just fall a few metres short of Munro status, but it’s one of Scotland’s most dramatic hills and opens up life-affirming ridge walking.
Arran’s mountainous north is postcard Scotland; simply breathtaking. As is the more politely mannered south, with its necklace of sandy beaches, forests and rolling hills. There are other islands too. Three of them – Buddhist-owned Holy Isle (great for hiking as well as silent retreats), tiny Pladda with its striking lighthouse and currently for sale as a ‘six bedroom island’; then even tinier Hamilton Island, which even many Arranachs forget about.
On the plate and in the glass Arran again inverts the microscope on Scotland. The Arran Cheese Shop fashions those wee waxed cheese rounds that excite in mainland delis; the 100% Arran milk cheeses of Bellevue Creamery are even better, with their camembert, brie and – especially - blue all outstanding. You must stick them, of course, on Wooleys of Arran ‘oaties’ and dunk on chutney from Arran Fine Foods.
If you’ve a sweeter tooth Brodick offers both a chocolatier and is home to the excellent Isle of Arran Ice Cream from Arran Dairies, who also have milk vending machines dotted around the island.
The list goes on and deliciously on. Brodick sports the Woodside Farm Shop. Whiting Bay – in the Bay Stores – a deli so well stocked it would star in any Scottish city and Bellevue Farm, who sell their own meat straight to the public alongside staging regular Farmers’ Markets. Donald and Alisa Currie are Arran’s human microcosm. Or more dynamos, with an energy and passion that pulses through their farm cottages, tours and their Bellevue Barn visitor attraction.
Long established Taste of Arran has been joined by Arran’s Food Journey, which also lists the Arran Butcher, Robin’s Herbs and the excellent Blackwater Bakehouse. They include the Seagate Brewery too, a recent low-fi companion to the superb Arran Brewery, home of the legendary Arran Blonde.
There are a brace of whisky distilleries too – the peaty delights of Lagg in the south have recently come on stream to join Lochranza’s northern distillery, which itself has just expanded its visitor facilities. Arran never stands still.
This world-class food and drink is built on the most solid foundations possible. Arran can prove its heritage, shows off its terroir, with rocks forged around the isle from all the geological periods of its 600 million year existence. A bid is currently under consideration with UNESCO to win coveted Geopark status in recognition of Arran’s global significance. This is after all where Scottish geologist James Hutton came to in 1787 to try to prove that the earth was older than 6,000 years and the legacy is Hutton’s Unconformity, which you can still see.
If you prefer human history delve into stately Brodick Castle, more grandly furnished country house than swarthy fortress. Lochranza Castle is more rugged, perfectly located too on its own pebbly waterfront promontory. Arran has prehistory covered as well, with even the most world weary travellers moved by the epic standing stones of Machrie Moor, backed up by the stones at Auchengallon and the ancient burial cairn of Carn Ban.
The Arran Heritage Museum transports you back through the years on an island that enjoys a tight connection to its past, as it does to the built landscape. Only one village, Shiskine, today is inland due to Clearances-era departed souls. The whitewashed cottages erected to house those who stayed are the stars of some of the west coast’s prettiest villages, not least Catacol with its Twelve Apostles. Count the chimneys for just one of Arran’s myriad mysteries.
Mankind does not have things all its own way on Arran, unlike on some Scottish islands. The coastline is alive with wildlife too, from passing dolphins to lingering basking sharks, while the skies teem with gannets and even soaring sea eagles. A swathe of mammals call the wild hinterland home. Indeed Arran is fittingly the only island where you find all of Scotland’s ‘Big Five’ – red deer, otters, golden eagles, red squirrels and common seals. The latter look anything but common as they sun themselves gracefully on Arran’s shores.
With Scotland in Miniature it’s hard to get bored. Not unless you’ve already hiked the 65-mile Arran Coastal Way, paddled the Arran Snorkel Trail, played a round at the seven golf courses and ridden the new MTB pump track at Dyemill. Or how about the Wee Bookshop that has opened in Corrie, the Arran Art Trail and the ‘new’ Neolithic site some are claiming could be as significant as Stonehenge?
Then there is the mysterious ‘doctor’s bath’, which took me years to stumble across. Patients were once prescribed bracing saltwater therapy in a ’bath’ hewn into the famous red sandstone of Arran’s coast. Don’t knock this saltwater therapy until you’ve tried it. Arran is an isle that constantly reminds you of its charms, that also renews and innovates. A bit like the best sides of a country it captures in such glorious miniature.
www.visitarran.com
Foodie Arran
La Truffe Noire
Award-winning Chef Timur Unal is at the helm of this impressive Brodick fine dining temple. Treat yourself to local Lamlash Bay lobster with lobster broth, truffled leeks and tomato caviar, or settle into the decadent tasting menu. Superb.
latruffenoirearran.co.uk
Mara Fish Bar & Deli
Feast on sustainable seafood served in sustainable containers, walking across the road to enjoy it on the Corrie shoreline. Book ahead for a coveted seat inside. Lamlash Bay lobster, langoustines and hand-dived scallops are given creative twists by the ever-inventive young Scottish husband and wife team.
mara-arran.co.uk
Forest of the Falls Cafe
Tuck into daily specials like sweet potato coconut curry at this new wooden cabin escape in the Duke of Hamilton’s old hunting grounds in Arran’s south, as you admire the intricate wood carvings of local joiner and artist Max Worthington. Afterwards a walk to the Eas Mor waterfall awaits on the accessible walking trail.
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Bed Down in Arran
Corrie Hotel
When proprietors Andrew and Rodger swapped Manhattan for the trim coastal village of Corrie it was a big move. In June 2022 perhaps an even bigger one was buying this landmark hotel and turning into a stylish boutique-style oasis with an excellent restaurant too. They’ve done a great job.
corriehotel.co.uk
Auchrannie Resort
Some visitors to Arran don’t even leave the grounds of the only real resort in the Scottish Isles. Stay at the stately old hotel, more modern spa option or the private lodges. Two swimming pools tempt, alongside a sports hall, adventure activities and myriad eating and drinking options.
auchrannie.co.uk
Bellevue Farm
Stay on a working farm and be embraced by the warmth of the Currie family. The views are arresting as the Kilbrannan Sound shimmers towards Kintyre; Arran’s hills vault in the distance. They offer two cottages – the Sleepy Sheepy and the Snoozy Cow.
bellevuearran.com
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