Tahbilk is one of Australia’s oldest wineries, and they have the largest and oldest single holding of the grape variety Marsanne in the world. Established in 1860 in the Nagambie Lakes area of Central Victoria (120km north of Melbourne), the estate has a unique terroir that favours Rhone varieties in particular. It’s the red sandy loam soils with high levels of ferrous oxide that get a great minerality into the wine and a balancing acidity into your glass.
The Daung-wurrung clans named the area tabilk-tabilk (the ‘h’ in the winery name was added later) which translates as “place of many watering holes”. The nearby presence of water is a massive benefit to Australian winemakers who often struggle to get enough moisture into the vineyards and the soil.
The Purbrick family bought the land in 1925 and have been making award winning wines there ever since. Their plaudits include the coveted James Halliday Winery of the Year award. Alister Purbrick is the current winemaker, and his daughter Hayley is the fifth generation of the family to be involved in the business.
As well as the famous Marsanne, they also plant Viognier, Roussanne, Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre, all of which can be found in the Rhone Valley. In addition, you’ll find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho in the vineyards. Like many of the established Australian wine-making families, the Purbricks are been carbon neutral – in their case since 2013.
Tahbilk Viognier 2019 (Inverarity One to One, £12.99). This is mostly Viognier with a dash of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and the balance is just superb. It’s the perfect match with mouclade (curried mussels).
Tahbilk Marsanne Museum Release 2012 (Inverarity One to One, £15.99). This is also a blend comprising 91% Marsanne, 5% Riesling and then 1% each of Chardonnay, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho. It’s incredibly complex with the Riesling coming through on the nose and the palate.
Tahbilk Marsanne ‘1927 Vines’ 2012 (Inverarity One to One, £24.99). This is quite simply a classic. It will improve for years to come if you have the willpower and the cellar space. Otherwise, enjoy it this weekend with a posh korma.
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