Andrew Redmond Barr: Veere in Netherlands was Scotland’s gateway to Europe

MOST Scots have probably never heard of Veere, but this historic port town in the southern Dutch province of Zeeland was once Scotland’s trading gateway to Europe. It was the town through which vast quantities of Scottish goods once flowed, and a considerable Scottish merchant community became established here over several hundred years.

Scotland’s trade with Veere was managed through a historic agreement known as the “staple port”, effectively meaning that Scottish trade had to pass through the town before going on to other markets in Europe. But what began first and foremost as a trading agreement ended up evolving into a whole variety of cultural, linguistic and diplomatic exchanges between Scotland and the Netherlands lasting many centuries.

Nowhere is more symbolic of this connection than the Schotse Huizen (Scottish Houses) located on what was once the Schotse Kaai (Scots Quay) on the waterfront in Veere. It’s a local museum occupying two beautifully preserved Scottish merchants’ houses and is today the town’s main cultural attraction. For the next few weeks, I’ll be here as artist in residence with support from the National Lottery through Creative Scotland, carrying out research into the historic Scottish presence, consulting with the local archives, drawing, sketching and writing about my experiences.

What I find so interesting about this story is that it presents us with an angle on Scottish history which we don’t often otherwise see. The Scottish community’s experience in Veere stands at odds with the claim that Scotland was an isolated country prior to the Union. Scotland was in fact well-connected in international diplomacy and trade, and its goods and produce were highly desired at competitive European ports. The story of the Scottish community in Veere has the power to challenge preconceptions about Scotland’s historic place in the world.

Last year I released a hand-drawn Atlas of Scotland, using maps and illustrations to tell Scotland’s story. One of the themes of the Atlas was to look at some of the fascinating ways Scotland had connected with the outside world throughout history, including the old European trade routes of Scottish merchants.

Embarking on this artist residency in the Netherlands is an opportunity for me to follow that thread of Scottish-European cultural history in much closer detail. It might only be one small town, but Veere has a vast amount to teach us about how Scots once related to other nations and cultures from as early as the 1400s.

One of the most striking things I noticed when first arriving in Veere this week was just how well preserved the town is. I had been reading about this place for months in centuries-old records, diaries and history books, and so it was exciting to finally arrive in the 21st century and find the port so apparently unchanged. Even comparing the historic street plans of Veere to the present-day layout, you’ll find that the town hasn’t expanded outwards very much at all. The scale, the layout, the architecture, the fabric of the place, would still be familiar to the Scots who inhabited these streets many hundreds of years ago.

It’s difficult to know precisely when Scotland’s organised trade with the European mainland began. The monks of Melrose were permitted to trade their much sought-after wool in the Low Countries as early as the 12th century. A Northumbrian monk of the same period wrote glowingly of a Scotland with “ports filled with foreign merchandise and the riches of distant nations”.

Early foreign exchange brought Scots a broadening of mind and a more expansive view of the world and its cultural variety. “Wyld adventouris” was the Scots language name given to overseas trade. These adventures brought Scots into contact with friendly foreign cultures, which welcomed Scots communities into trading burghs all over mainland Europe. Scottish trade became particularly desirable due to the kingdom’s vast quantities of high-quality wool, which was used to produce everything from clothing to tapestries.

In some cases trade with England was not very profitable, as both countries produced broadly similar goods. Trading further afield in Europe was often more advantageous, and in return brought a much greater variety of rare and unusual foods, clothing and other luxuries back into Scottish burghs.

The Scottish connection to Veere began with the arrival Princess Mary, the fifth daughter of King James I of Scotland. It was Mary’s marriage to the Lord of Veere in 1444 which first established a Scottish presence here.

Mary lived at the now-vanished Zandenburg Castle, just south of the Veere town walls. Old drawings give an impression of an extraordinary and unusual Dutch palace filled with halls, towers and gardens.

Zandenburg Castle where Princess Mary first established a Scottish presence

IT was said that Princess Mary’s presence in Veere opened the door to a new era of trade between Scotland and the Low Countries, but few could have predicted just how deeply rooted, over so many centuries, the Scottish community would become here. Even long after Princess Mary was gone, trade agreements and diplomatic letters between Scotland and the Netherlands continued to reference Mary’s early presence in Veere, aiming to furnish the Scottish-Dutch relationship with an “air of antiquity” for centuries to come.

On first appearances, larger ports such as Bruges, Antwerp, Rotterdam or Middelburg might have been more obviously attractive to Scottish merchants, but it was the relatively small town of Veere which continued to offer the Scots the most competitive advantages.

The Scots also felt they could establish themselves more fully in a small town, without being overshadowed by larger economic players. It was in Veere that the Scots would be the largest minority community, and it was here that they dreamt of building their Little Caledonia on the River Scheldt.

In next week’s diary from Veere, I’ll be delving deeper into the Scottish presence in the town, looking at how the Scots established their own houses, inns, and a kirk.

I’ll be exploring the intriguing role of Scottish fashion, how trade was conducted bilingually in both Scots and Dutch, and so much more. Until next time, tot ziens!