"I'm headed to the Isle of Luing," I'd say.
"Where?" would come the consistent reply – most surprisingly, even from those who spend most of their weekends exploring Scotland's Highlands and Islands.
A member of the Slate Islands, named after their mining heritage, Luing can be found just south of Oban and Mull. You can reach it from Cuan, by hopping on what is surely one of Scotland's shortest ferry journeys at around three minutes long. Luing is very small at just six miles long and around 1.5 miles wide, with just 200 residents.
There are few accommodation options on Luing, which probably explains why it's not already on all the "must-see" Scottish islands lists. However the island is now home to Wild Luing, a series of eight beautifully designed self-catering lodges which the young owners promise aren't "your typical pod suites". They're not joking – Wild Luing is very luxurious as far as cabin lodgings go. There's a huge comfortable bed, gorgeous roomy bathroom full of Highland Soap Company products and a full kitchen stocked with fresh bread – even a fridge packed with home-cooked meals for each night of our stay. That's all without even mentioning the view over Torsa Bay.
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(Image: Wild Luing) ![Inside one of the luxury pods at Wild Luing]()
Inside one of the luxury pods at Wild Luing (Image: Wild Luing) A friend and I travelled to stay in these fancy Luing pods for two nights, on what just so happened to be the best weekend for weather that Scotland had seen in weeks. As we sat in the small passenger boat on a warm Friday evening petting the resident ferry dog – having being warned to watch out for the otter poo – the man operating the vessel took out his phone to show us this very same crossing just a week prior. "It was worse than Biblical," he told us. "You're very lucky."
![Laura enjoys the company of the ferry dog on the way to Luing]()
Laura enjoys the company of the ferry dog on the way to Luing (Image: NQ) In the morning, we awoke to another stunning sunny day as mist rose up around the terrain. We enjoyed a glorious breakfast before walking down to the nearby family-run Sunnybrae Holiday Park to collect our rental bikes. The friendly team advised on the best places to explore, and assured us we could call if there were any problems. This did turn out to be necessary as somehow both of our bikes' gear systems broke down a couple of kilometres into our adventure, and we required rescuing. The Sunnybrae team had driven out with new bikes for us within five minutes, and couldn't have been more helpful.
![A lovely breakfast on the patio overlooking Torsa Bay]()
A lovely breakfast on the patio overlooking Torsa Bay (Image: NQ) We walked the 10 minutes to the Wild Luing site, and settled in for the night. We set up around the firepit outside with the aim of scaring off the aggressive midges, a standard symptom of a pleasant summer night in the Inner Hebrides, and enjoyed wine while the sun set over the bay. The cows, known for their fames Luing beef, watched observantly over the fence as we chatted into the early hours.
![Our broken bikes sit at the side of the road as we await assistance]()
Our broken bikes sit at the side of the road as we await assistance (Image: NQ) Our journey continued uninterrupted as we made our way over to Cullipool, the largest settlement on Luing. Cycling west towards the dramatic views of the ocean and surrounding islands, we head towards the village's main visitor centre – the Atlantic Centre. Inside the stone building is a fascinating exhibition on the island's slate mining history, with a fantastic array of photographs and memories from past residents. There's also a highly recommended cafe and restaurant which features home baking from Luing locals, which are tantalising to look at but unfortunately wouldn't pair well with the cycling. We bought trinkets commemorating our visit, including hand-painted slate fridge magnets showcasing beautiful destinations on the island.
![Looking west over the Atlantic from Cullipool]()
Looking west over the Atlantic from Cullipool (Image: NQ) From Cullipool we cycled the few kilometres up to Kilchattan graveyard, where there are memorials to island residents killed in both world wars and the remains of what is thought to be a 12th-century church. We moved on to Toberonochy on the east coast of the island, where we watched children and dogs playing in the harbour and enjoying the 21-degree warmth, before stopping at a local artist's studio. Naluka Art pays tribute to the rich natural resources of Luing, with drawings, paintings and designs inspired by the local surroundings. Originally from the Netherlands, she spoke highly of her newfound Scottish home.
![Inside Naluka Art's studio in Toberonochy]()
Inside Naluka Art's studio in Toberonochy (Image: NQ) We've managed to clock up about 15km on the bikes by this point, and feeling the late August heat we decided to make a stop for some swimming. Overcoming the challenge of some pretty steep inclines, we find ourselves at the bay by Ardinamir. We get that cold water rush as we dive in, and splash around surrounded by the rugged landscape and peaks of neighbouring islands.
![Enjoying the sunshine after a dip in the water]()
Enjoying the sunshine after a dip in the water (Image: NQ) To finish a perfect day, we broke out the last of the wine and tucked into the pheasant in whisky sauce left for us by Wild Luing's friendly owners Jack and Emily. I don't remember having felt more relaxed in my life than on that Saturday night, bathing in what was left of the sun, sharing good food and drinks, watching our for the resident otters in the waters below.
A couple of nights was the perfect amount of time for Luing, as you can explore most of the island in one afternoon if you go by foot or pedal. It would make a great additional stop on an adventure to some of the more frequently visited Hebridean destinations, allowing you to get away from the well-travelled tourist trail and get some real peace and quiet. It is worth keeping in mind that Wild Luing is most certainly not a budget-friendly option for an island holiday, but it could make the ideal accommodation for more special occasions. What more can you ask for than sitting by the fire, looking up at a perfectly clear starry sky, listening to the wildlife and knowing you've got a, frankly, luxurious place to sleep?
WildLuing's self-catering suites sleep two people are priced from £200 per night in low season.
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